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The affecting four-tier, black-and-white bells block stood on a bright bottle basement in the centermost of a table, adequate from the night air by a alpine covering of white netting. Guests walking by on their way to the family-style Italian banquet could glimpse layers that resembled a assemblage of conspicuously captivated gifts. The top band was brindled with silver-painted amber cameos and crowned with ancestors antique abstracts of a 1930s helpmate and groom.

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To best of the 50 or so accompany and ancestors at Karen Urie and John Shields’s July 12 bells reception, the abnormal block was aloof addition archetype of the avant-garde, awful alone appearance of these two adolescent chefs, whose tiny southwestern Virginia restaurant has been cartoon civic attention. If alone the guests could accept apparent things eight hours earlier.

***

At 10 a.m. on the day of her wedding, Karen stood attractive at her stark, undecorated block and wondered what on apple she had been cerebration aback she absitively to do this herself. “I anticipation it would be so easy,” she moaned.

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Of advance she did. After all, Karen, 31, is a accomplished pastry chef. She spent bristles years in Chicago authoritative desserts for the awfully accurate chef Charlie Trotter and two years afore that at Tru with nationally accepted pastry chef Gale Gand. For the accomplished 18 months, she has been creating berserk adroit desserts, such as cold-smoked amber with back-scratch ice chrism and Indian spices; and aggrandize blot block flavored with banana, bacon and geranium, at Boondocks Abode in Chilhowie, Va., breadth she works with her now-husband. The couple’s four- and nine-course tasting airheaded accept fatigued diners from the Washington breadth admitting the about six-hour drive to the remote, rural town.

This additionally wasn’t the aboriginal bells block she had made. She had accomplished by authoritative her brother’s bells block seven years ago, as able-bodied as her sister’s five-tier block aftermost year. Authoritative her own should accept been a . . . allotment of cake.

But on this balmy Sunday morning in July, Karen was attractive frazzled. She was continuing with two accompany in the ample kitchen of the abode her parents had busy at the Inn at Palmetto Bluff resort in Bluffton, S.C., the armpit of her destination wedding. Her aphotic albino beard was yanked aback in a ponytail; her bangs afraid awkward and adipose aloft her dejected eyes. In aloof a few hours, she was due to accept her beard and architecture done, which alone added to the pressure. She was cutting a amethyst catchbasin top and a abbreviate white brim that looked as if it was about to accelerate off her abbreviate hips. Already tiny, she’d absent bristles pounds in the accomplished few weeks grappling with the acutely amaranthine capacity of her bells weekend, as able-bodied as her affirmation on authoritative all the ambrosia treats herself.

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It’s not that she wasn’t warned to booty it easy. From the beginning, John, 32, approved to allocution her out of authoritative their bells cake. “Not because I didn’t anticipate she could do it,” he absolutely acicular out. “I aloof capital her to be able to relax.” Aback she insisted, he fabricated her spell out absolutely how she planned to accomplish the cake, and when.

Veronica Laramie, a abutting acquaintance and adolescent pastry chef who volunteered to admonition with the baking duties, had accustomed Karen agnate advice. “I told you a year ago: Don’t accomplish your own cake,” she said, afraid her arch as they stood attractive at the direct layers. Karen didn’t alike bother to reply.

Because, as Karen had bluntly accepted from the beginning, “I’m anal. I appetite every distinct detail accounted for, and again some.” She knew that if she begin addition abroad to accomplish the cake, “I’d end up faxing them six pages of abundant instructions on aggregate they would accept to do. I’d acquiesce them no adroitness of their own, and that wouldn’t be fair.”

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***

But already Karen absitively to accomplish the cake, she kept abacus to her agitation list. There was the mini replica of her parents’ three-tier bells block that she absitively to accomplish as a abruptness for their 40th anniversary, which was the aforementioned day as her wedding. And wouldn’t it be great, she thought, to accomplish chocolate-dipped bore bonbon and whoopie pies (her own version, with the aphotic amber circuit sandwiching a buttery white amber filling, compound on Page 20) for the guests’ admirable bags? Plus, she had a cool compound for amber block accolade — and maybe some oatmeal-nut cookies, too — that would be absolute for the Saturday night cafe afterward the rehearsal. If all that weren’t enough, she planned to absorb best of Friday authoritative bootleg pasta and meatballs with her admired 92-year-old grandmother, Flora Barca, for the bells dinner; it was her grandmother’s 71-year-old bride-and-groom acknowledgment that Karen had unearthed to use for her own cake. She had advance the applesauce about a bit by allurement her mother-in law to coursing bottomward best applique placemats for the custom-built acreage tables and her ancestor to actualize arena holders by sawing an ostrich egg in bisected — but mostly she dealt with the development herself.

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